13th April 2012 - Bienn a' Chaorainn

Look closely and you can see some of the biggest examples of Club Moss I've ever seen...

Some interesting snow architecture, a double cornice

Looking towards Creag Meagaidh

A snow shower just passed

Trying to get a good picture that does justice to the snow formations

So this week we have had a rather dramatic return to winter, and I wanted to get out of the house and into the white stuff. I fancied a stroll rather than a big epic day, and wanted to leave the ropes behind so I opted to head up to the Creag Meagaidh area and explore Beinn a' Chaorainn and its associated peaks.

After a reasonably leisurely start, I had a nice long walk in on easy forest tracks before I had to start the slog up hill. The snow line was reasonably high but there was some flurries drifting in every now and again and I was confident the snow would be substantial higher up! However, getting there was a bit of a surprise, as I felt terrible and sluggish, even though I was carrying far less than usual. However I ploughed on and made the first top in reasonable time, taking plenty of pics as I went. I was rewarded with some superb views and interesting snow architecture in the form of some sunken cornices which were being overlapped by new ones. Unfortunately the pictures I took of this didn't do it any justice :(

I continued along the north ridge to the second summit top, and had a spot of lunch just as the wind decided to start picking up - time to leave! I opted to descend the opposite way that I ascended, down toward Allt a' Chaorainn and back towards the A86. Overall it was a good day, stunning scenery, plenty of snow and, apart from a group of 3 I encountered, I had the hills and glens to myself! Tomorrow Anna and I aim to complete the entire Grey Corries round, heres hoping I am feeling in better form than I was today!

31st March 2012 - First Mountain Route of the Season

The North Peak. North Rib is just right of Great Gully, the obvious gash right of centre

Anna ascending Pitch 2, her first time using twin ropes

The view from the belay stance, Pitch 2

Anna summitting the final pitch, North Rib completed

Just time for a quick pose with some stunning scenery

Looking west towards crowds at the Cobbler summit and down to the Clyde

South East towards Ben Lomond and Arrochar. The Campsies and Ochills in the distance

 Today me and Anna were heading down to Lenzie to celebrate Grahams engagement to Anne, and on the way down decided to make the most of the lovely weather, before it disappears! We opted to stop off at Arrochar and climb a classic route on the Cobbler called North Rib. It is only a VDiff but was ideal for introducing Anna to bigger, more exposed climbs which we will no doubt be trying to do alot more of this year! The guide book gives it one star, which given the good rock and fine situations of pitch two, is well deserved.

After a reasonably early get away from the Fort, we made good time down Loch Lomondside and looked massively over-packed with all our gear compared to the masses of people heading up with shorts and t-shirts and tiny little back packs. We were a little jealous of their lack of weight and equipment! The walk in was not anywhere near as long and sluggish as we had feared and we actually made really good time, even overtaking some of the other groups heading up. It took just less than two hours to reach the bottom of our route, which was not very easy to find initially, as the guide book description is rubbish and the diagram could have been drawn by a three year old! None the less we got ourselves sorted out and racked up for the first lead, which looked a bit of an initial haul up the shallow groove in walking boots!

The gear was good (regardless of what others may say) and above the groove it unfortunately became a grass fest for 15 metres until a rocky corner provides an excellent belay and some nice views. Anna came up second, slowly at first while she negotiated the awkward groove, and we sorted out the ropes on her arrival ready for me to take the next lead. At this point I opted to change into rock shoes as the route above looked much nicer. An awkward step up to a block, and round left on an interesting traverse brought the best of the climbing: up a well protected and fairly easy rib with superb views into Great Gully and out down Loch Long towards Dunoon and the Ailsa Craig far in the distance. I couldn't help but stop and enjoy this superb vista, in warm sunshine, in March! The climbing was nice enough not to worry to much about placing regular gear, but my heart did miss a beat when I wrapped my fingers round what felt like a cracking hold, only for it to come away in my hand!! Panic over, I found a stunning belay spot on a large grassy ledge and a bomber boulder for an anchor. Again, the views were breathtaking and we were glad at the decision not to go cragging as the plan had initially been. Anna came up next, smoothly climbing and removing gear as she came, thrilled at the belay spot I had chosen. 

The final pitch was reasonably short, maybe 15 metres, and started with interest around a jumble of rocks, and ended on the summit of the rib, beside the top of the North Peak, and another excellent anchor was devised using two threaded slings. Realistically I could have led pitches 2 and 3 as one pitch, but the guide book is very vague on the actual route to take, and its length so better safe than sorry. Plus pitch 2's anchor position was worth the extra time required, and it ensured that Anna did not feel too cut off from me.

We skipped to the North Peak summit, took some pics and jogged back down in good time to the car, objective completed. Off to Cumbernauld to see family before going to the Engagement Party and a cracking night out (she said yes, of course!!!). Looking forward to our next venture out, but with a turn in the weather due, who knows if it will be a winter or summer route...

25th March 2012 - Teaching to Lead

Placing a nut in a good crack

A bomber bit of gear

Anna on the lead, placing passive protection

Looking out over Glen Nevis, stunning

Today Anna and I opted to enjoy the wamest March day since 1988 (apparently) with a jaunt into Glen Nevis to go over some lead climbing techniques and anchor building with Anna at Poll Dubh in order to increase her confidence and get leading more routes this year. We went on up to Upper Pinnacle Buttress where we could comfortably, and safely, go over placing gear and considerations when building an anchor before Anna got the rope involved and got set up properly. Once she was happy, and had ironed out any issues, she dropped a rope down so that I could climb up, allowing her to refresh her belaying techniques, and see the anchor in action.

We had a spot of lunch, enjoying the heat and finding it difficult to motivate ourselves to do anything else! Just as we did motivate ourselves, Mike and his family came by, and we let them skip on the route ahead of us (giving us some more 'nap-time'!!!). Once they had finished (the kids making the climb look like a trip down to Morrisons..) Anna skipped on and led confidently up the crack line, placing solid gear and setting up a bomber anchor before bringing me up. At the top we discussed her gear placements and the 'head game' involved in leading, before setting up a quick abseil to retrieve a bit of gear (yup, it was that good!) and to give her a wee shot of abseiling as we may be doing quite a bit of this in the coming months...

All in all a productive day in glorious sunshine, rounded off with a stroll by the Nevis where the water was invitingly cool! Hopefully Anna will lead a route or two this week in the good weather, giving her the confidence to start pushing the grade and seconding up harder routes. Physically and technically she has no issues what so ever...

The Gutter on Pine Wall follows the obvious crack line up two pitches to the obvious Pine tree, then beyond it.

As a wee post script, a few days after we had practiced the above, Anna comfortably led the Gutter in Poll Dubh one evening after work. This was her first multi-pitch and she led all three pitches comfortably. Her gear placements were solid and her anchors were bomber, even finishing in half light! So well done Anna! Her only let down of the night was leaving her jacket at the foot of the crag with the house keys in it....unamused is not the word I would use to describe my thoughts on this subject...

24th March 2012 - A Recovering Walk by Arisaig

On the way to Arisaig

Entering the Bay

Anna on the beach

Turqoise waters!

Feet up!

Anna scrambling about

Leaving :(

So my original plans for this weekend just passed were dashed by a mysterious illness that struck late on Thursday night. Bed-ridden from the nose down on Friday left me feeling pretty depressed, especially with Scotlands micro-Summer conditions we are experiencing just now! Feeling a tad better on Saturday, Anna and I headed for the coast to soak in the rays by Arisaig, and go for a gentle but lengthy walk. A few years back while I was working at Castle Toward a group of instructors and managers had sea kayaked from Glen Uig out to the Arisaig peninsula, setting up camp at a trully picturesque little bay with excellent camping areas, rock for scrambling on and a true sense of isolation and solitude. Since moving up to Fort William I have been keen to take anna out there but weather and other commitments have always stood in the way, but we thought it would be an ideal venture while I was feeling a little out of sorts! It was a pleasant 15km round trip, along a road mostly (sadly) but it ends maybe a mile or so before the coast and luckily no one in a car seems to venture out that far, so we had the area to ourselves and had a right good explore, with me pointing out memorable spots and incidents, while reflecting on days gone by and memories shared with others now spread far across the UK.

We enjoyed a spot of lunch and took some photos, before heading back to Arisaig and on to Mallaig for some Fish and Chips from the Tea Garden (delicious and worth every penny!). It was a delightful day and just what I needed to perk me up a bit :)

12th March 2012 - A visit to Creag Dubh

Graham making early moves on Inbred (HVS 5a***)

The view from my belay on pitch 2 of Inbred

Graham moving up pitch 2. It was an excellent, interesting route well worthy of its 3 star status

Graham approaching the crux roof of King Bee Direct (HVS 5a**)

Placing protective runners before the tricky move to gain the belay ledge

Graham upon reaching my perch after pitch 2 and 3 (crux) of King Bee Direct

Graham dropping over the edge approachinh space on the final descent

Looking justifiably happy after pitch 1 of Inbred, a Haston classic

The view from the belay ledge on pitch 1, Inbred. Pumped and cold, it took me a while to take the next lead!

So today Graham and I headed east to look for some dry rock. I cant believe that this time last week I was on my Winter ML assessment, and now I'm doing my first rock climbs of the season, its pretty mental! But best to start as we intend to go on, so it was a trip to Creag Dubh that was in order, a crag that neither of us has ventured to before - and it delivered the goods!

We decided to get straight on something with a bit of kick, so G led the first pitch of Inbred (HVS 5a***) which was steep and sustained, but on good positive holds. He belayed on a decent ledge, and as I seconded up my hands were so cold and pumped I couldn't feel anything. A great start to the season for G, he will be leading to a great standard by the time the season ends! I then led the second pitch over easier ground, with some decent gear if a little run out. Positive holds and a lack of over-polished rock made this route an immediate favourite, and after a lovely abseil back to ground level we were keen to grab a bite to eat and hit the rock again.

Although the rock was generally dry, there were some irritating areas of wet which disturbed some lines which may have taken our fancy, so we opted for the classic King Bee Direct (HVS 5a**). Again G took the first lead (which gives this VS classic its HVS grade) and after some deliberation made easy work of the overhanging crux to a solid belay above. I moved up after, impressed at his lead, and then took over to attempt the 'original' crux at VS 5a. The line was lovely, with alot of interest, a good mixture of holds and body positions and just the right amount of exposure for someone just getting into multi pitch VS+ climbing. In some guides this long pitch is split in two, but I led through both as one. Having made short work of the well protected crux, I scaled the shallow arete to the exposed but comfortable belay and brought G up. He then led through up the final pitch, which started with interest and ended like a scene from the Lost World: grassy, slippy and overgrown. We rigged up an abseil rope, and nicked down to our original hanging belay before heading on down the looong Great Wall to the ground and packing up.

A superb start to the season, my intention being to be climbing comfortably at VS 4c multipitch by the end of the year seems much more achievable. Cheers to Graham for coming out and as always, having a right blast!

Check out some pics of the handsome man at the other end of the rope at Grahams blog! :)