14th February 2014 - winter skills up at Aonach Mor

Today was day two of the winter skills course with the first year students from the ATM course at West Highland college. I headed out with three of the students from yesterday to consolidate and expand upon the techniques we looked at yesterday. Due to the experience of the team i opted to focus our time on learning and discussing skills and strategies rather than going on a long journey. We headed up the gondola quite early,and i was keen to get the guys thinking about suitable venues, along with potential hazards and other considerations with forecasts in mind.

We spent the day looking further at kit, in particular boots and crampons. We practiced using the boots as tools on varying slopes, and looked at reserving energy and moving efficiently. We then dug hasty pits and explored the snow pack,getting the guys to consider what might be changing in the pack considering current conditions. We then found a good slope to practice self arrests, and the lads had a great session developing their techniques. We practiced on our backs, fronts, upside down, out of control and with no axe. All of which the guys had plenty of practice of.

We then looked at cutting steps both up and down slopes, managing a group and using snow proves before heading east to find a good vantage point from which we could look safely at the east face of the nid ridge and is substantial cornice and scarp slope, discussing features to look out for on a loaded slope.

Then it was back to the gondola station, beside which we found a cracking little spot to dig some emergency shelters, which the lads really enjoyed. A great end to a great day thanks guys for your banter and input over the two days!!

13th February 2014 - winter skills with ATM 1

Today i was out with 6 students from the ATM 1 course at West Highland college looking at winter skills with a particular emphasis on the decision making that a leader or instructor goes through through out the day. The students had very little experience of the winter hills, so the first item to cover was clothing, equipment and how to pack our bags. Then we looked at the avalanche and weather forecasts to help us decide on a suitable route and venue for us to go to.

With this done we joined dave and his group in the bus and headed for the upper north Face car park. We only made it half way up before we came across several vehicles kind of parked by the track. We negotiated our way past with a bit of difficulty and finally got parked up. Groups split, we headed on foot to the cic path. I stopped with the group every time i was making a decision or judgement in my head, and used these opportunities to discuss these judgments along with a few other skills that may come in handy. It was getting increasingly windy, with plenty of snow being scoured and deposited about the place. It wasn't the best learning environment but it was good to get the guys operating in tough conditions. We got behind a boulder and put crampons, goggles and helmets on before going past daves team digging snow holes. We chose a good slope to look at hasty pits, trench tests and snow pack analysis before performing basic self arrests under an increasing bombardment of depositing snow.

With time against us we cracked on back to the bus, only to spend the next hour struggling to get it turned and dug out in the snow. A sterling effort from all involved, and plenty of digging practice!!

Today was a good example of transferred learning for the students, as well as exciting conditions in which i had to change and adapt my intentions through out the day. A similar follow on session planned tomorrow.

Saw a few interesting decisions being made by teams out today, given the snow pack, and with much of the same forecast for tomorrow please stay safe!!

1st February 2014 - Ben Nevis in poor conditions

Stunning views this morning down the Glen towards Stob Ban

The low level of snow made everything very pretty. The wind made things a little different...

Things began to deteriorate from the Half way Lochan on-wards

Goggles on and a mix of spin drift and fresh snow met us on the upper half of the mountain

Avalanche debris and a wall of wind slab (complete with cornice) at the Red Burn

On the retreat: Our knee deep footprints were covered over in less than 20 minutes...

It has been a while since I updated this blog unfortunately, but I have been pretty busy working at Outward Bound and Kilbowie, as well as plenty of guiding in the months leading up to Christmas. Since then, it's been pretty quiet. Which is no bad thing considering the horrific weather and snow pack conditions we have been experiencing.

Today, however, I was out making an attempt on the Ben with a strong team from Leeds. They drove up yesterday having planned this trip well in advance, so were pretty keen to get up there and claim their prize. However, conditions were pretty horrendous, with High Risk avalanche warnings on the SAIS forecast from West to North East slopes above 750m - precisely on our path up the zig-zags. Add to this high winds (increasing through the day) and a rising temperature and it was definitely a day for gut feeling judgements and correct decisions.

We made excellent time up from Achintee, moving fast and enjoying the stunning views of the winter wonderland that had appeared over night. As we got round to Windy Corner, however, the winds started picking up and along by Halfway Lochan we decided to goggle up. Conditions were really starting to look grim, visibility was deteriorating and the wind was increasing rapidly but we decided to go and have a gander up to the Red Burn. We crossed some worryingly unstable patches of snow on the footpath, and had a wee look at the snow pack to see what was going on. As we approached the Red Burn visibility was almost zero, and I was alarmed to see what appeared to be some serious avalanche debris in the gully. Suddenly the cloud cleared and a wall of windslab topped with a rather large cornice loomed out of the cloud. I had a quick look at it but decided it was too unstable to risk climbing up or skirting round, and so we decided to head back down, defeated by the mountain. Our footprints (often knee deep and in places thigh deep) from twenty minutes previous were now completely covered over, an indication of how much snow was falling or being deposited in the area at that time.

On the way down we met some other teams heading up, some well equipped some not so well equipped but for the most part some good decisions were made by the people who were out in the area.

All in all it was a great day out regardless of how far we got, it was good craic and the lads seemed to enjoy their day - hopefully they can make it up again this winter for a more successful attempt! Thanks guys.

Today I was working for the Highland Mountain Company.

22nd August 2013 - Ledge route with outward bound

Had a cracking wee day today on ledge route with Martin and his group from outward bound. They are camping for two nights but I was only dropping in to support on the route. Peeled off back round from the top and down the screes by castle ridge. Glorious day!!

5th August 2013 - A huge catch up!

Things have been extremely busy here at Craig Dubh Mountaineering, which has prevented me really having any time to keep this blog up to date. In this post I will try to bring things bang up to the present, and will try harder to post things as they happen!

On the 27th June I was working for Abacus Mountain Guides, guiding a team from Travelodge up Ben Nevis with the intention of building a replica bedroom on the summit. There were 4 teams in all, Led by myself, Dave Anderson of Lochaber Guides, Will Rowland of Atlas Mountaineering and John O'Sullivan. It was a bit of a windy day, and on top it got cold very quickly. My team was up first so we had to wait a while for the others to arrive so that we could get the room built as quickly as possible. In the end the guys pulled it off, and raised a good amount of money for Macmillan Cancer Care, as well as performing a nifty bit of PR for themselves - well done team!

On the 28th June I was up to Aviemore for an induction day with Wilderness Scotland, who I hope to do some work for in the future. This was a great day for finding out more about the company and its aims for the future.

The 1st and 2nd of July saw me working at Outward Bound, doing a few gorge sesions, paddle sessions and a tree session known as Baby G. Both days were great fun as always.

The next few days were spent working on my marketing materials, namely my flyers and car art work which was getting done by Allround Signs of Fort William - highly recommended, they did a fantastic job! Now you might see my car dotted around the Fort, or further a field! Only down side is I have to now watch how I drive!!!

Look out for this vehicle!!!

The 6th of July heralded in a very special day, the wedding of Graham Boistelle and Anne McVey. It was a great wedding, great food and excellent company. I consumed rather more than I intended, and as Anna and I were driving down to the Lake District the next morning, this meant that Anna was doing all the driving :)

We spent a week in the Lakes, the first two days with Anna's family who were staying in the area. As the weather was scorching, we were only interested in finding good rivers to swim in and good pubs to drink in! Anna's brother Will, and I, went for an explore up a river near Langdale which ended up being a terrific little gorge walk, which culminated in a great little pool deep enough to jump into and swim about. This was really refreshing and great fun which everyone got involved in.

Once Annas family had headed for home, we went to Great Langdale and camped up for the rest of the week. We spent our time enjoying the sunshine, and had a great day on Jacks Rake with our old friend Pete and his girlfriend Olivia. It was great to catch up with Pete, who we sadly dont see very often! We had a lovely meal at the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel before Pete and Olivia headed for home. Anna and I headd for Shepherds crag in Borrowdale the next day, and both led a few good routes before heading back to the campsite for a slap up BBQ!! It was far too busy at Raven crag, and far too hot at Scout crag the next day so we satisfied ourselves with a swim in the river instead, only being interupted by a school group doing a gorge walk!!

Anna admiring the view over to the Langdales

Disappointed with the portions at the Britannia!

A glorious summer sunset

The sun setting over the Langdales

A scene from the Walking Dead??

 Once we were home in Fort William it was straight back to the grind for us both, with a few days guiding on the Ben, and even around Cow Hill for me, followed by the Nevis River Race which I helped supervise with the Rescue Team. Luckily, no casualties - mostly due to the complete lack of water I'd imagine!! On the 22nd and 23rd July I was at Glenmore Lodge on my TCL Training, which was brilliant fun and very informative. Met some great guys there who I hope to get out biking with in the near future!

 

Not so much water for the race this year...

Anna Enjoying the warm sand on Morar Sands

 A few more days of building up my marketing and online presence was then followed by a 7 day Coast to Coast expedition for Wilderness Scotland. I was in the role of Support Driver for this trip, so had to travel ahead of the group, sort out meals and ensure accomodation was all sorted out before arrival. It was great experience but I would definately prefer to be guiding this trip in future - all the more reason to pursue the Mountain Bike Leader Award!!! The route goes from Aberdeen in the East to the Ardnamurchan Lighthouse in the West. Weatherwise we were very fortunate with only one day of consistent heavy rain and one day of showers. All 8 clients did extremely well and seemed to really enjoy the experience of biking in the wilds, and dining on some of Scotlands finest cuisine! I must have put on 2 stone last week!! Its a hard life, this guiding malark!!!

The end of the Coast to Coast - Ardnamurchan Lighthouse

A rainbow over Ardgour

A pleasant lunch spot near Loch Sheil

The finish - Ardnamurchan Lighthouse

No rest for the wicked, as they say...I got home on Friday afternoon, and was straight onto the wettest day I have experienced on the Ben yet, guiding a group of 12 ladies alongside Dave Anderson. I turned back at Corner 8 with 4 of the ladies, as they were struggling and/or getting very close to being hyperthermic! Dave cracked on with the other 8, and made a successful lightening attempt on the summit. The wind on the the Zig-zags and alongside the Half way Lochan was knocking people flat, so the girls did really well to persevere and get up and down safely - a hot shower and a few beers very well earned on their part as well as ours!!

Saturday night saw our friends Amanda and Dave come round to ours for dinner and a few farewell beers for Amanda, who is sadly moving to Glasgow tomorrow.

Yesterday saw me on the Ben again, this time with Andrew and Irene who had come up from Cardiff for the week and wanted to summit Ben Nevis. The weather stayed remarkably dry (I instantly regretted wearing my waterproofs all day) and the wind buffetted us from time to time but never caused us any great concern. We were up and back down in a good time of 7 hours, although I am sure a few muscles will ache tomorrow! Well done guys for sticking at it and not giving up, just a pity the cloud never cleared to give a view from the summit - next time though!!! Both days I was working for Seren Ventures.

The Ladies trooping up the first slopes

The Ladies team at the Red Burn - Half way!!

The cloud lifting above Glen Nevis

Andrew and Irene successfully on the summit of the Ben

And that brings us bang up to date today. I am sure I have missed some things out, but will endeavor to keep a more accurate account of what I am doing, and keep it current!!!