26th January 2012 - A day on Aonach Mor

Freezing cold on the chair lift to the top!

Looking back towards the Gondola Station

Looking down the first pitch

Graham making a start on the ice pitch

Enjoying tea, cake and a chat at the Gondola Station

So today Graham and I had a leisurely start before taking the Gondola up Aonach Mor. It was looking white and snowy, and the temperature was pretty low so we were hopeful that conditions would be in. The plan was for Graham to lead White Shark (IV, 4***), and then I would have a go at a Grade III nearby. After getting the chair lift up to its highest point, I felt really sluggish on the final walk in, tired and sore. However, when we reached the top station and started kitting up, surrounded by other climbers and falling snow, my spirits rose and I felt much more up for some adventure. Guy was also up Aonach Mor, no doubt doing something ridiculously hard!!!

Our initial plan went a bit hay wire when Graham suddenly realised that he hadn't packed his helmet, so we had to change our plan with this in mind. We opted to ab over the cornice at Easy Gully (I) and check out Temperence Union Blues (III*), but it had a team on it already and we certainly didnt want to be climbing under anyone else!!! Moving along a bit we took a look at Pernille (III), and Graham decided it was in. We soloed up the first pitch and set up anchor. We were, however, off route already. With only a glance at the guide book we didnt really take in where the route went, but Graham made an excellent lead up this nameless route (we reckon it should be called 'Remember Yer Lid Next Time, Ya Fud!'). There was a brilliant pitch of ice, with a fast-melting ice curtain to lean off to get a good foot placement. Above this, a short snow section led to a horrible step of mixed climbing, which was awkward but not exposed, and the placements above were pretty solid. While Graham was leading, I was getting pelted with spindrift, loose ice and plenty of slabs of neve, but the worst came as he cut his way through the cornice, it was like being avalanched there was so much loose stuff coming down and I was in the direct line of fire.

I seconded up the route, impressed at Grahams lead. I thoroughly enjoyed the nice ice section and made a good job of the mixed step, but the hot aches caught up with me as I topped out. Sheer agony, I was good for nothing for 10 minutes! We decided that, given the situation, we would call it a day at that, and walked down to the Gondola Station, where we enjoyed a well earned cup of tea and a bit of cake, lovely! Cheers Graham for another cracking day.

Things I learned today:

1. Get a lanyard for my axes, leashes are awkward, get in the way and I hate them
2. Look at the guidebook properly!
3. Shake out more while climbing!