8th February 2013 - Ledge Route

Walking in

Davie and his Mona Lisa's smile with Andy

Anna practicing her snow pack analysis

Coire na Ciste

Someone high on Indicator Wall. Amazing zoom on this camera

Anna looking less than impressed that there are other people on her route!!

The final section

At the summit cairn, 1344m

Chilling out by the Shelter

Anna and Me

The snow was still thick down low

Annas friend Aoifa was up visiting from Manchester, and Anna was keen to get her out enjoying the Scottish mountains. Last year we took her up the Ballachulish Horseshoe (I) and the Pap of Glen Coe, and this time Anna wanted to take her up something a little harder. We opted to take her up Ledge Route (II), a real all year round classic with enough excitement and jaw dropping views to get anyone hooked on the Ben.

We walked in with Davie and Andy, who were looking to get up something in the III/IV range, and the banter was excellent as usual. Unfortunately the joys of having a Ben key were a little lost on me as my exhaust fell apart part of the way up the track (apparently the new part hadn't been fitted properly...), but I was keen to not worry about it until later. Conditions were looking really nice, and loads of folk were heading to the North Face. Max was up working with a team from Jagged globe and had a good day on the SW Rib of the Douglas Boulder (III), Graham and Ben were aiming higher and got up Vanishing Gully (V, 5) and then the Curtain (V, 5). So all in all, loads of routes saw some traffic, which is fantastic, loads of smiling faces!

We kitted up at the CIC, and Anna, myself and Aoifa looked up towards the train of people heading up No. 5 to Ledge Route with a little disappointment. But we headed on up nonetheless, and very quickly over took several groupd who were moving slowly. Jamie B had some clients on the route and he let us sneak past early on. Aoifa was steady on her feet and more than capable. I let Anna lead most of the route to give her some confidence. Aoifas only (hilarious) wobble was downclimbing the short ledge. Draped over the rock, feet only 6 inches off the ground she chanted 'oh God, oh God, oh God' until Anna, laughing merrily, slipped her down to the safety of the ground!

We nestled in behind Di Gilbert and her client who were moving at a fine pace, and enjoyed ourselves taking photos, trying to avoid the nice guys behind us who were unfortunately giving a fine display of death roping....

We topped out in really good time, and made a b-line to the summit so that Aoifa could claim the top in winter conditions. Visibility was really poor so I took a wee bearing to get us on track and away from the edge. After what seemed an age, we made it to the summit, took some snaps, had a break and headed on down by the Red Burn and back to the car. We made really good time and had a thoroughly good time. Anna did really well leading Aoifa and giving loads of information while I acted as Safety Supervisor and photographer.


On the plus side, got the  (very loud) car to the garage before it closed and they fixed it free of charge - winner!

2nd February 2013 - Aonach Eagagh

The Three Sisters, Glen Coe

Bhienn Fhada and Stob Coire Sgreamhach

Looking down Glen Coe

Stob Coire nan Lochan and the Bidean nam Bian massif

me and Anna. Is that new boots Anna?

Andy abseiling the bad step

Looking back over the ridge

I hate down climbing!

Looking on to what is ahead

Anna making light work of the first climb

Anna tackling the Pinnacles

Anna summiting the short chimney climb

Cracking views of a cracking ridge

Some git spoiling the view! (me!)

Anna on the final climb

Davie and Andy on the final narrow section

The Aonach Eagagh (III)

So last night Davie suggested a traverse of the Aonagh Eagagh Ridge (III), which he has done countless times and ranks amongst his favourite mountain excursions. I have done it several times in summer, but not in winter. So Davie, Andy, Anna and I met early in the morning and sorted out cars at either end of the ridge before setting off on the steep ascent of Am Bodach.

Anna was trying out some new winter boots and was concerned that they might be too big or give her blisters. In the end they worked perfectly and gave her much more confidence on steep ground with the crampons on, and kept her feet much warmer too.

On our way up, we overtook the same four lads me and Davie had spoken to yesterday on CMD, and luckily they had taken on our advice and hired some appropriate crampons for the job. We trooped on after a friendly chat, determined to get to the Bad Step and away before them!!! We reached the top of Am Bodach in reasonably good time, and could see that the ridge was in great nick so we were psyched! We geared up quickly, and Davie and I headed on to get the abseil set up before the traffic built up behind us too much. Davie abbed down, and I got Anna set up to go down next, followed by myself and then Andy, leaving the other lads our tat and some pointers on how to get down efficiently.

We made good progress over the ridge, we all seemed quite confident, with the only bits slowing us down being the down climbing (which I hate - its the only thing that makes me a bit nervous!) but Davie was in good form spotting and route finding. We made light work of all of the technicalities, until we reached the Pinnacles. Here, after witnessing some horrendous death roping techniques, Davie set up a tension traverse to allow the rest of us to cross safely. The climbing is daunting because of the consequences of a fall, but the climbing is straight forward and easily negotiated. From here we only had a wee bit of downclimbing, which was getting a bit easier now, and then a final steep climb which heralded the end of the difficulties and all that remained was the long ponderous slog up onto Stob Coire Leith, and then across to Sgorr nam Fiannaidh. Given conditions, we opted to carry on along to the bealach at the Pap of Glen Coe before heading down towards the car.

We had a terrific day, and the Aonach Eagagh remains one of my favourite trips out. Now Andy is back up in the area hopefully we will be able to get out some more. Next objective is Goof Friday Climb (III) on the Ben. Thanks to Davie for his experience and input during the traverse!