16th April 2014 - Ben Nevis again!

So today I was working up on the Ben again, this time with Stephen and his 13 year old daughter Alice and her friend Charlotte. It was a bit of a last minute job, and with the weather forecast I wasn't sure whether we were going to make it up there successfully or not. But we gave it a bash!

I met them at their hotel just before 9, and after a look at their kit and the handing out of hire kit we set off from Achintee. It was a really pleasant day, and the team worked really hard to keep a good pace going. The two youngsters were great fun and seemed to enjoy themselves.

We made steady progress, not needing crampons or axes until around corner 4. Once we had them on, the difference compared to others who weren't using them was massive. The three of them quickly got into the swing of things, and beyond corner 8 it was just a case of careful navving into the whiteout. Luckily the 60mph gusts that had been forecast never materialised and we were able to make it onto the summit successfully.

We had a quick bite and a drink before heading back down, carefully navigating our way back to the zig zags. From here we just followed the huge snow pack by the Red Burn all the way down to corner 2, the girls having great fun bum sliding down large sections of this. After packing the crampons away, we trooped on down in good time, just under 7 hours. The team worked really hard and rallied each other to make the day fun and successful - but I bet there will be a few tired heads tonight and sore legs tomorrow! Well done troops, you earned that summit!

Charlotte pulled off some magnificent mountain poses through the day! (Stephen, Charlotte, Alice l-r)

They insisted on having a photo with me. So here we are at the Red Burn

Here's the team just after we entered the white room

Here they are, elated at what remains of the summit cairn. Charlotte, at 12, was the youngest to summit today I reckon

Some huge cracks appearing above the path as it crosses the Red Burn, wonder where that will go...

8th February 2013 - Ledge Route

Walking in

Davie and his Mona Lisa's smile with Andy

Anna practicing her snow pack analysis

Coire na Ciste

Someone high on Indicator Wall. Amazing zoom on this camera

Anna looking less than impressed that there are other people on her route!!

The final section

At the summit cairn, 1344m

Chilling out by the Shelter

Anna and Me

The snow was still thick down low

Annas friend Aoifa was up visiting from Manchester, and Anna was keen to get her out enjoying the Scottish mountains. Last year we took her up the Ballachulish Horseshoe (I) and the Pap of Glen Coe, and this time Anna wanted to take her up something a little harder. We opted to take her up Ledge Route (II), a real all year round classic with enough excitement and jaw dropping views to get anyone hooked on the Ben.

We walked in with Davie and Andy, who were looking to get up something in the III/IV range, and the banter was excellent as usual. Unfortunately the joys of having a Ben key were a little lost on me as my exhaust fell apart part of the way up the track (apparently the new part hadn't been fitted properly...), but I was keen to not worry about it until later. Conditions were looking really nice, and loads of folk were heading to the North Face. Max was up working with a team from Jagged globe and had a good day on the SW Rib of the Douglas Boulder (III), Graham and Ben were aiming higher and got up Vanishing Gully (V, 5) and then the Curtain (V, 5). So all in all, loads of routes saw some traffic, which is fantastic, loads of smiling faces!

We kitted up at the CIC, and Anna, myself and Aoifa looked up towards the train of people heading up No. 5 to Ledge Route with a little disappointment. But we headed on up nonetheless, and very quickly over took several groupd who were moving slowly. Jamie B had some clients on the route and he let us sneak past early on. Aoifa was steady on her feet and more than capable. I let Anna lead most of the route to give her some confidence. Aoifas only (hilarious) wobble was downclimbing the short ledge. Draped over the rock, feet only 6 inches off the ground she chanted 'oh God, oh God, oh God' until Anna, laughing merrily, slipped her down to the safety of the ground!

We nestled in behind Di Gilbert and her client who were moving at a fine pace, and enjoyed ourselves taking photos, trying to avoid the nice guys behind us who were unfortunately giving a fine display of death roping....

We topped out in really good time, and made a b-line to the summit so that Aoifa could claim the top in winter conditions. Visibility was really poor so I took a wee bearing to get us on track and away from the edge. After what seemed an age, we made it to the summit, took some snaps, had a break and headed on down by the Red Burn and back to the car. We made really good time and had a thoroughly good time. Anna did really well leading Aoifa and giving loads of information while I acted as Safety Supervisor and photographer.


On the plus side, got the  (very loud) car to the garage before it closed and they fixed it free of charge - winner!

14th January 2013 - NE Ridge Stob Coire Sgreamhach

Davie looks on to Gearr Aonach and the Zig-Zags

Looking back to the A82 - pretty white all over

Davie wading through thigh deep snow. This was quite shallow compared to other areas...

Looking over the route to come. Stob Coire Sgreamhach in the distance

Davie captures our route

Making quick progress through difficult conditions

Unconsolidated snow made these sections an interesting traverse

Looking back, our footprints visible beyond

We triggered a small slab avalanche which slipped maybe 15 metres. Hearts in mouth.

I am aware that I haven't updated this blog since the beginning of December, so thought I would give a short update. In December I was pretty busy with things, but managed to enjoy a weekend in the Cairngorms for the Mountain Rescue Committee of Scotlands annual conference. It was a great weekend jam packed with excellent work shops and lectures.

After a long break back in Glasgow to see family and friends I returned to the Highlands refreshed but lacking in fitness due to a lack of good winter conditions and not enough time to get out and about. Today though, Davie and I decided to head out in Glen Coe and attempt the NE Ridge of Stob Coire Sgreamhach (II), a little frequented route it would seem.

Snow fall at the car park made it obvious that the snow on the mountain would be fresh and deep. We headed straight up the nose of Bhienn Fhada which provided an interesting way to gain height quickly. We were soon on the ridge proper, and began fighting our way through huge drifts of snow, sometimes waist high and more. The winds picked up steadily through the day, blasting spin drift up into our faces and making visibility difficult. We pressed on without stopping much. Each time we made a summit, we looked out to see another rising before us. The ridge is far from technical, but it is quite enjoyable with some terrific views (when the cloud lifted) and the only area of difficulty was the Bad Step. Afte a short easy down climb into a narrow gap, we had to skirt round a steep face. This proved a bit tricky given the snow conditions, and we accidentally triggered a small slab avalanche which only ran maybe 15 metres, but left us being extra careful as we made our traverse round. As the ground steepened, making good foot and axe placements became more and more tricky. We ended up spending a long time swimming up a gully, tiring, laborious work in the conditions but the snow pack here seemed more secure.

Out of this gully, it was a short troop up to the summit and then off towards the bealach above Lairig Eilde, and down in to the glen towards our cars. Another cracking day in great company. Working at the college for the rest of the week, and hoping for good conditions for the weekend to get out.

28th November 2012 - An Epic Day on Tower Ridge, Ben Nevis

Approaching our target as the day breaks

NE Buttress, Observatory Ridge and Tower Ridge

Davie Scott, Kev Shields, Dave Anderson and Craig McDonald. Not smiling for long.

Approaching East Gully

Ascending to the Douglas Gap

The Gully taking us onto the Ridge proper

Try and spot Kev and Dave amid the jumbled rocks below the Little Tower

Preparing for what turned out to be one of the trickier ascents under the conditions

Dave and Kev negotiate the Eastern Traverse, while Davie looks on

Davie makes light work of the massively banked out Eastern Traverse

The Cave, filling nicely. Its more like swimming uphill through porridge than climbing!

The light fails as we reach Tower Gap. Dave crosses and makes tentative progress

Finally darkness consumes us, and the headtorches come out

Cold, tired, relieved and thrilled at the top. It's a long walk back down though....

On the tourist track in pitch darkness. A very different place to the summer track so many people know...

A few months ago, Davie Scott and I had a chat about our personal tick lists for this winter season. The past two seasons I have consumed my time preparing for my Winter ML Assessment, and now that this is done and dusted I am keen to do more winter climbing again!! The outcome of the conversation was that my absolute top-of-the-list target was Tower Ridge. Coming in at a cool IV, 3 *** I didnt have particularly high hopes of getting on it personally.

Fast forward to Tuesday afternoon, and Davie and I are again discussing what we want to get on with this good weather, and he mentions that him and a few others are going to attempt Tower Ridge the following day, and invites me along. After considering for all of 20 seconds, it was on. Needless to say, I was pretty nervous and certainly didnt want to hold the other guys up, but certainly didn't want to miss this opportunity!

And so it was that at 6 am on a freezing November morning, I met up with Davie, Kev Shields and Dave Anderson and headed on up towards the North Face. Under the cover of darkness we made quick progress, morale was high and the banter was flowing. We came across a few others hoping to make good ascents in the fine weather, and day was beginning to break as we reached the CIC hut. We didn't hang around long, but got moving up towards East Gully on the approach to the Douglas Gap. We harnessed and helmetted up, and after inspecting the snow pack on a few occasions we made quick progress up into the Gap. Dave and Davie made nice solo ascents of the chimney, and I got 3/4 of the way up before losing my cool and getting a rope dropped down - better safe than dead, but annoyingly as the rope popped into view I discovered an excellent foothold I completely and utterly missed! Kev came up quickly behind, and we were all content to be on the ridge proper!

We moved on over easy ground with poor, deep snow until we reached the Little Tower, where Dave and Davie again put up some excellent leads directly up the Tower, with Kev and I following on. I certainly wouldn't have wanted to lead this pitch, although in hindsight the gear was excellent when it was found. Again we were able to make quick progress after this tricky section, overcoming easier obstacles and enjoying the absolutely stunning panoramic views all around.

Finally we reached the base of the Great Tower, where we had to face the first of two traditional cruxes - the Eastern Traverse. It was seriously banked out, and the snow was falling away under our feet. Every step was a lottery. Dave and Davie laced the line with good gear, and the next thing we knew we were swimming up through the Cave, with barely inches to spare as we squeezed through the other side! From here Dave put up a stunning lead onto the top of the Tower just as the light was fading. I don't think any of us really realised just how arduous the ridge had been under the given conditions, but we pressed on into the darkness regardless and negotiated the second crux - Tower Gap. Climbing tentatively along this metre wide ridge, dropping your weight onto snow covered ledges with only some tat for support is certainly not for the faint hearted. Leaning across the gap and trying to climb up the other side seemed almost ludicrous at the time: but we did it. The screams and yells of exasperation from another team on NE Buttress certainly didn't boost confidence though! It was headtorch central as we moved up the final slopes and steps to the exit chimney, the only part of the whole day which provided secure feeling axe placements. And then that was it, we were on the summit, elated. Cold, wet, tired but elated. We shook hands, smiles all round as we snapped a few finishing photos and grabbed a quick bite to eat before making our way swiftly to the tourist track and back to the car park over the bog. It was here that I stuffed my expensive gloves down my jacket - the last time I ever saw them :( When I unclasped my waist belt they must have dropped out - I jogged up early the next morning to find them but they were gone! Absolutely gutted! Best gloves I ever had, and now the theme of many a good joke!

So there we have it. My first winter route of the 12/13 season was on top of my tick list. It was in horrific condition, with no frozen turf, soft sugary snow, no consolidation whatsoever and not a drop of ice to aid our ascent. But it was done. So can I therefore rest on my laurels, glad to have achieved my number one target? Can I buggery - the next outting is already in the pipe line!!!

Thanks lads for a trully memorable ascent - certainly my most challenging to date and one that will take a long time to forget!