8th February 2013 - Ledge Route

Walking in

Davie and his Mona Lisa's smile with Andy

Anna practicing her snow pack analysis

Coire na Ciste

Someone high on Indicator Wall. Amazing zoom on this camera

Anna looking less than impressed that there are other people on her route!!

The final section

At the summit cairn, 1344m

Chilling out by the Shelter

Anna and Me

The snow was still thick down low

Annas friend Aoifa was up visiting from Manchester, and Anna was keen to get her out enjoying the Scottish mountains. Last year we took her up the Ballachulish Horseshoe (I) and the Pap of Glen Coe, and this time Anna wanted to take her up something a little harder. We opted to take her up Ledge Route (II), a real all year round classic with enough excitement and jaw dropping views to get anyone hooked on the Ben.

We walked in with Davie and Andy, who were looking to get up something in the III/IV range, and the banter was excellent as usual. Unfortunately the joys of having a Ben key were a little lost on me as my exhaust fell apart part of the way up the track (apparently the new part hadn't been fitted properly...), but I was keen to not worry about it until later. Conditions were looking really nice, and loads of folk were heading to the North Face. Max was up working with a team from Jagged globe and had a good day on the SW Rib of the Douglas Boulder (III), Graham and Ben were aiming higher and got up Vanishing Gully (V, 5) and then the Curtain (V, 5). So all in all, loads of routes saw some traffic, which is fantastic, loads of smiling faces!

We kitted up at the CIC, and Anna, myself and Aoifa looked up towards the train of people heading up No. 5 to Ledge Route with a little disappointment. But we headed on up nonetheless, and very quickly over took several groupd who were moving slowly. Jamie B had some clients on the route and he let us sneak past early on. Aoifa was steady on her feet and more than capable. I let Anna lead most of the route to give her some confidence. Aoifas only (hilarious) wobble was downclimbing the short ledge. Draped over the rock, feet only 6 inches off the ground she chanted 'oh God, oh God, oh God' until Anna, laughing merrily, slipped her down to the safety of the ground!

We nestled in behind Di Gilbert and her client who were moving at a fine pace, and enjoyed ourselves taking photos, trying to avoid the nice guys behind us who were unfortunately giving a fine display of death roping....

We topped out in really good time, and made a b-line to the summit so that Aoifa could claim the top in winter conditions. Visibility was really poor so I took a wee bearing to get us on track and away from the edge. After what seemed an age, we made it to the summit, took some snaps, had a break and headed on down by the Red Burn and back to the car. We made really good time and had a thoroughly good time. Anna did really well leading Aoifa and giving loads of information while I acted as Safety Supervisor and photographer.


On the plus side, got the  (very loud) car to the garage before it closed and they fixed it free of charge - winner!

2nd February 2013 - Aonach Eagagh

The Three Sisters, Glen Coe

Bhienn Fhada and Stob Coire Sgreamhach

Looking down Glen Coe

Stob Coire nan Lochan and the Bidean nam Bian massif

me and Anna. Is that new boots Anna?

Andy abseiling the bad step

Looking back over the ridge

I hate down climbing!

Looking on to what is ahead

Anna making light work of the first climb

Anna tackling the Pinnacles

Anna summiting the short chimney climb

Cracking views of a cracking ridge

Some git spoiling the view! (me!)

Anna on the final climb

Davie and Andy on the final narrow section

The Aonach Eagagh (III)

So last night Davie suggested a traverse of the Aonagh Eagagh Ridge (III), which he has done countless times and ranks amongst his favourite mountain excursions. I have done it several times in summer, but not in winter. So Davie, Andy, Anna and I met early in the morning and sorted out cars at either end of the ridge before setting off on the steep ascent of Am Bodach.

Anna was trying out some new winter boots and was concerned that they might be too big or give her blisters. In the end they worked perfectly and gave her much more confidence on steep ground with the crampons on, and kept her feet much warmer too.

On our way up, we overtook the same four lads me and Davie had spoken to yesterday on CMD, and luckily they had taken on our advice and hired some appropriate crampons for the job. We trooped on after a friendly chat, determined to get to the Bad Step and away before them!!! We reached the top of Am Bodach in reasonably good time, and could see that the ridge was in great nick so we were psyched! We geared up quickly, and Davie and I headed on to get the abseil set up before the traffic built up behind us too much. Davie abbed down, and I got Anna set up to go down next, followed by myself and then Andy, leaving the other lads our tat and some pointers on how to get down efficiently.

We made good progress over the ridge, we all seemed quite confident, with the only bits slowing us down being the down climbing (which I hate - its the only thing that makes me a bit nervous!) but Davie was in good form spotting and route finding. We made light work of all of the technicalities, until we reached the Pinnacles. Here, after witnessing some horrendous death roping techniques, Davie set up a tension traverse to allow the rest of us to cross safely. The climbing is daunting because of the consequences of a fall, but the climbing is straight forward and easily negotiated. From here we only had a wee bit of downclimbing, which was getting a bit easier now, and then a final steep climb which heralded the end of the difficulties and all that remained was the long ponderous slog up onto Stob Coire Leith, and then across to Sgorr nam Fiannaidh. Given conditions, we opted to carry on along to the bealach at the Pap of Glen Coe before heading down towards the car.

We had a terrific day, and the Aonach Eagagh remains one of my favourite trips out. Now Andy is back up in the area hopefully we will be able to get out some more. Next objective is Goof Friday Climb (III) on the Ben. Thanks to Davie for his experience and input during the traverse!

1st February 2013 - CMD failure!

Low cloud, no views today!

Looking white higher up. Those clouds were shiftng!

Davies face says it all....shite!

 So with the weather forecast singing about light winds, 70% chance of cloud free munros and a good freezing level, Davie and I decided for a lightening assault on the CMD. Due to recent weather patterns, snow fall and gale force SW winds our plans of Gardyloo Gully or Glovers Chimney were set aside for a more appropriate day!

I picked Davie up at the North Face car park and we headed on up in my car to the top car park. Mike Pescod was out with a client attempting the Douglas boulder and Tower Ridge traverse and made a hasty start while we were kitting up. Soon, though we were on our way along the CIC path, veering off promptly to start our way up the long slog to the top.

We made good time, and hit the snow line quite quickly, but it still felt like it was taking forever. On top of this, the wind seemed to be relentless, and visibility was pretty poor too. We ground onwards, coming across a team of three who had opted to back off (a good choice as they were unsure of the route and its consequences) no doubt at the sound advice of their wee mascot, Rodger the Badger!!!

On we went, as visibility decreased and wind speeds increased until we came across another group of lads putting crampons on. They were in two minds about the route, and by this point so were we but we opted to get to the summit of CMD and see how things were going before making a choice. A soft powder cornice had built up to our left so we were very aware of where we were going. On the summit of CMD we donned crampons, and deemed a traverse of the ridge an unneccesary risk and turned back. Its a good thing we did, as we came across the foursome again having some difficulty with a set of crampons (B1 boots, C3 crampons - they were never designed to fit). Davie and I had a good chat to them while we fixed the crampons temporarily with some of my tie tags in order to get them safely down before setting off ahead of them.

We made good progress and as always there was lots of banter and chat, until we were disrupted by someone behind us screaming, and a dog ahead of us howling (not making this up). So I went Rolf Harris style but couldnt persuade the dog to come to us (the screams behind were shouting its name) but found out later that they had recovered the mutt safely.

Safely back at the cars, we reflected on a good but short jaunt up CMD in poor conditions and we knew we had made the right choice not proceeding with the arete. Weather looking better tomorrow, Aonach Eagagh on the cards...

14th January 2013 - NE Ridge Stob Coire Sgreamhach

Davie looks on to Gearr Aonach and the Zig-Zags

Looking back to the A82 - pretty white all over

Davie wading through thigh deep snow. This was quite shallow compared to other areas...

Looking over the route to come. Stob Coire Sgreamhach in the distance

Davie captures our route

Making quick progress through difficult conditions

Unconsolidated snow made these sections an interesting traverse

Looking back, our footprints visible beyond

We triggered a small slab avalanche which slipped maybe 15 metres. Hearts in mouth.

I am aware that I haven't updated this blog since the beginning of December, so thought I would give a short update. In December I was pretty busy with things, but managed to enjoy a weekend in the Cairngorms for the Mountain Rescue Committee of Scotlands annual conference. It was a great weekend jam packed with excellent work shops and lectures.

After a long break back in Glasgow to see family and friends I returned to the Highlands refreshed but lacking in fitness due to a lack of good winter conditions and not enough time to get out and about. Today though, Davie and I decided to head out in Glen Coe and attempt the NE Ridge of Stob Coire Sgreamhach (II), a little frequented route it would seem.

Snow fall at the car park made it obvious that the snow on the mountain would be fresh and deep. We headed straight up the nose of Bhienn Fhada which provided an interesting way to gain height quickly. We were soon on the ridge proper, and began fighting our way through huge drifts of snow, sometimes waist high and more. The winds picked up steadily through the day, blasting spin drift up into our faces and making visibility difficult. We pressed on without stopping much. Each time we made a summit, we looked out to see another rising before us. The ridge is far from technical, but it is quite enjoyable with some terrific views (when the cloud lifted) and the only area of difficulty was the Bad Step. Afte a short easy down climb into a narrow gap, we had to skirt round a steep face. This proved a bit tricky given the snow conditions, and we accidentally triggered a small slab avalanche which only ran maybe 15 metres, but left us being extra careful as we made our traverse round. As the ground steepened, making good foot and axe placements became more and more tricky. We ended up spending a long time swimming up a gully, tiring, laborious work in the conditions but the snow pack here seemed more secure.

Out of this gully, it was a short troop up to the summit and then off towards the bealach above Lairig Eilde, and down in to the glen towards our cars. Another cracking day in great company. Working at the college for the rest of the week, and hoping for good conditions for the weekend to get out.

Sron na Lairig - 1st December 2012

So today I was out with Anna, Davie, Kev, Dave and Dave's mate Dessie and our objective was Sron na Lairig, a classic little ridge which protrudes from the eastern flank of Stob Coire Sgreamhach in Glen Coe. Craig, Suzie and John had the same objective and to all intents and purposes we were there together. Meeting at the wee Buachaille car park at half 7, we set off around 8am along the pleasant but very icy Lairig Eilde path in full view of our target, only stopping to adjust layers occasionally, or to take many, many pictures.

We reached the foot of the Sron in good time, and got ourselves kitted up with harnesses and helmets, adjusted our layering again, and cracked on. It was Annas first winter day this season, and as it sits at Grade II I opted to stay at the back and make sure she felt confident on the more awkward steps. She aced the lot of it, without even a second thought. We soloed the entire route comfortably, and enjoyed the short but very narrow and exposed sections. Snow underfoot was slightly better than it had been on Tower Ridge, and the turf was pretty much frozen throughout, providing support when needed.

We topped out before midday, and sat down for some lunch and to take in the stunning views down Glen Etive, across Glen Coe and out towards the Black Mount. The sky was blue and visibility exceptional. We packed up and headed to the summit of Sgreamhach through soft, varying depth of snow with ankle breaking scree beneath.

After spending some time on the summit discussing out options for descent, we backtracked beyond the Sron to a shallow bealach which dropped us down quite quickly to the Glen floor, eventually joining the Eilde path back and along to the car park, enjoying the craic and banter all the way.

We then popped into the Clachaig for a well earned lunch before heading our seperate ways home. Another cracking winter route completed in good company, this time within daylight hours!!!