19th February 2014 - Winter ML refresher & the Fort William Mountain Festival MRT fundraiser night

Today i headed up to Aonach Mor with Graham, John and Lawrence to refresh some winter ml rope work skills in preparation for their upcoming assessments. We headed up towards the Nid ridge, and found a suitable site to go over some sliding, before looking more in depth at winter anchors. The guys built snow bollards, buried axe anchors, practiced stomper belays and dug loads of bucket seats. Hopefully the day was good for them and gave some good pointers for the assessment. I have no doubt they will all pass no problem.

After tea and cake I heard home to prepare for the evening. I was the compere for the Lochaber Mountain Rescue fundraiser night at the Ben Nevis Inn as part of the fort William mountain festival. It was a great night, with some inspirational films bring shown, a fun raffle and a superb presentation by Joe Beaumont who has come from a serious climbing accident to take on some serious challenges that even fully able bodied people would seriously struggle to complete. We look forward to seeing Joe again later in the year as he completes one of these challenges. Read more of Joe's story here.

It was a really nice evening and great to see people turning up to support the team!! Check out the Lochaber Mountain Rescue Teams new revamped website for more information on what we do, where we do it and why!

The next few nights we will be at the festival in the Nevis Centre promoting the Carpe Diem zone which is offering people the chance to get free guiding on a number of routes to the top of Ben nevis with a qualified guide. In return, all wet ask is that at the top we spend some time picking up rubbish to leave a cleaner mountain for future visitors. The guiding day is on the 20th September 2014 and is in association with Friends of Nevis and the John Muir Trust, so why not come along to the exhibition area and get involved!!

Self arrest practice

John building a snow bollard

Furious digging to create a bucket seat

Beginning to build a buried axe belay

Joe Beaumont giving his presentation

16th March 2013 - Comb Gully

Nevis Base Camp

Looking up towards Comb Buttress and Green Gully, Number 3 Gully Buttress and Number 3 Gully

Some Graupel in the snow pack

Craig leading off on Pitch 2

Smug git tops out

Robbed blind of a good ice lead....

Today Craig and I were on a mission to nail Green Gully (again), but after a long walk in to the CIC, and then on up towards the base of the route we were soon thwarted by a number of teams already queing up to get on it. Knowing that things were set to deteriorate in the afternoon, we were keen just to get on something and hope for the best, so after a short discussion we headed towards Comb Gully (IV, 4) which sits around the buttress from Green Gully.

Snow conditions were not great today, with several large patches of fresh windslab and plenty of snow being blown around. To top this off there was a very definate weak layer of Graupel in amongst the snow pack (see picture) so alarm bells ringing kept me alert as we traversed round to the initial gully slopes. The gully was pretty loose for the first pitch which we soloed. Craig got up first and fired in a few screws, and we agreed to split the interesting ice pitch in half so that we both had a go on the interesting stuff.

Craig led off, and it seemed to take an incredible amount of time while the rope slowly slinked through the belay device, but in fact it was relatively quick. Being cold and stationary has a dramatic effect on your moral and sense of time, and even more worryingly, Craig was almost out of rope which could mean only one thing: He had led the entire ice pitch!!

As I climbed I could see why Craig had taken his time, it was steep and quite sustained but very short. I felt the hot aches kick in just as I topped out over the final bulge and saw Craigs smiling face. My smile, however, was short lived, as I spied my 'pitch' - 40 metres of gearless snow slope topping out into the wild spindrift that seemed to have really picked up in the last 30 minutes. I didn't see most of this pitch as I had my eyes closed, but soon the angle eased off and I was able to build a reinforced axe belay and bring the smug git up!!!

On top we were both pretty elated: it was cold, windy and visibility was poor but we had had another cracking day, another classic climb under our belts and we would beat the worst of the weather. Seeing countless people traversing the summit plateaux wearing jeans, trainers and carrying plastic bags....

We made a swift exit down number 4 Gully, sliding most of the way down on our backsides. Craig had a particularly good slide which must have lasted 300 metres. The heavier you are the further you slide it would appear....

No sooner had I got home, and about to tip my toe in the shower that there was a call out for two crag fast climbers on the North Face....typical!! All ended safe and sound :) 

Another cracking day on the Ben - heres to plenty more!

14th January 2013 - NE Ridge Stob Coire Sgreamhach

Davie looks on to Gearr Aonach and the Zig-Zags

Looking back to the A82 - pretty white all over

Davie wading through thigh deep snow. This was quite shallow compared to other areas...

Looking over the route to come. Stob Coire Sgreamhach in the distance

Davie captures our route

Making quick progress through difficult conditions

Unconsolidated snow made these sections an interesting traverse

Looking back, our footprints visible beyond

We triggered a small slab avalanche which slipped maybe 15 metres. Hearts in mouth.

I am aware that I haven't updated this blog since the beginning of December, so thought I would give a short update. In December I was pretty busy with things, but managed to enjoy a weekend in the Cairngorms for the Mountain Rescue Committee of Scotlands annual conference. It was a great weekend jam packed with excellent work shops and lectures.

After a long break back in Glasgow to see family and friends I returned to the Highlands refreshed but lacking in fitness due to a lack of good winter conditions and not enough time to get out and about. Today though, Davie and I decided to head out in Glen Coe and attempt the NE Ridge of Stob Coire Sgreamhach (II), a little frequented route it would seem.

Snow fall at the car park made it obvious that the snow on the mountain would be fresh and deep. We headed straight up the nose of Bhienn Fhada which provided an interesting way to gain height quickly. We were soon on the ridge proper, and began fighting our way through huge drifts of snow, sometimes waist high and more. The winds picked up steadily through the day, blasting spin drift up into our faces and making visibility difficult. We pressed on without stopping much. Each time we made a summit, we looked out to see another rising before us. The ridge is far from technical, but it is quite enjoyable with some terrific views (when the cloud lifted) and the only area of difficulty was the Bad Step. Afte a short easy down climb into a narrow gap, we had to skirt round a steep face. This proved a bit tricky given the snow conditions, and we accidentally triggered a small slab avalanche which only ran maybe 15 metres, but left us being extra careful as we made our traverse round. As the ground steepened, making good foot and axe placements became more and more tricky. We ended up spending a long time swimming up a gully, tiring, laborious work in the conditions but the snow pack here seemed more secure.

Out of this gully, it was a short troop up to the summit and then off towards the bealach above Lairig Eilde, and down in to the glen towards our cars. Another cracking day in great company. Working at the college for the rest of the week, and hoping for good conditions for the weekend to get out.

14th October 2012 - A few trips on the Ben

Today I had a super early start working for Alan Kimber leading a group up Ben Nevis. The group were originally aiming to set off between 5 and 6 yesterday evening, but travelling from London via mini bus takes far longer than you might think...

In the end the idea of starting as soon as they arrived (some time after 1am this morning) was binned in favour of a 6.30am start, and so I found myself at the Glen Nevis Youth Hostel just before half 6. I managed to gather most of the group before Al turned up to dish out some kit and a general safety brief, but it was still almost half 7 until they were all ready to depart. We took a long slow trip up Heart Attack hill, with the group very unevenly matched for pace: some were very quick and prepared, whilst others were less fit and took longer to cover the ground. The conversation was very interesting as it was a Muslim group and it was great to talk to them about their backgrounds and beliefs. They were very pleased to have someone open minded asking questions, and we all got along very well.

Sadly, however, one member of the group was seriously struggling, and a few zigs and zags above heart attack junction I decided that enough was enough - we had already spent much of our allocated time allowance getting to where we were and I was not going to risk someone in the group getting injured or worse. So we turned back and slowly made our way back down to their transport. Again, the conversation was varied and very interesting, and the group seemed to enjoy the day regardless of how far they got. They have a long journey back to London ahead of them, but they will hopefully return to conquer the Ben when they are in better shape and better prepared. They were raising money for orphans in Eastern Europe, so hopefully they get a good amount.

After getting home and having a relaxing afternoon, Anna and I enjoyed a take away (well earned) and were just settling down for the evening when their was a Mountain Rescue call out. An elderly gentleman required assistance getting down from the Ben Track with an injured foot. We got up in good time and stretchered him off safely. Heres hoping for a speedy recovery and a return to the hills soon!

I am shadowing/doing some induction work at Outward Bound tomorrow. The forecast looks decent but for now I am in serious need of my bed!

15th September 2012 - Guiding on Ben Nevis

About to head off

Above Heart Attack Hill

Sticking together

Linda preparing for the weather...

At the Red Burn - half way there!

Looking out over Glen Nevis

The team on the summit

Cheers, and well done everyone!

Today saw me leading a group from Moss Park Care Home in Fort William up the Ben in order to raise money for their comfort fund. There were 9 in the group, and we made good progress up to the Red Burn at half way. From here on in the wind increased steadily, and brought with it much colder temperatures for the team to deal with. Above Corner 6 visibility decreased dramatically, spoiling our view, but the team ploughed on nonetheless and made it to the summit shortly after 2pm. As always, the tourist track was like the A82 - overcrowded with very few places to pass!

After a few misty shots on the summit, we quickly ate our lunch and moved off on our way back down to Achintee. Progress was much quicker going down as the majority of the big teams had already started off before us. There was a good number of Lochaber Mountain Rescue Team members out guiding too, so it was nice to exchange a few words with them as we passed each other by.

We made it down in reasonably good time, getting to Achintee at around half 5 - just in time for a well earned pint and a steak dinner! Thanks guys for a cracking day out, and good luck raising money for the home :)

17th June 2012 - A little catching up...

So it has been a few weeks since I last updated this blog, and it has been pretty busy! Since my little jaunt up Ledge Route on the 25th, I have completed my Level 1 Rigging course for the MRC of S (25th-27th May). This training was provided by the Lochaber Mountain Rescue Team and was held in the Lochaber area. It comprised of evening lectures, practical sessions and two days on the crags at Poll Dubh putting into practice the multitude of skills which I picked up along the way. The additional equipment required for the varying types of stretcher rescue is astounding, and it was particularly interesting learning more about load bearing, shock loading and equipment ratings in a rescue context.

The course was excellently led by Stu Johnston, and aided by Bill Strachan alongside a team of experienced mountain rescue team members from across Scotland. It was a tough weekend with so much information to take on board, and the heat certainly didn't help, but by close of play on the Sunday things were beginning to make more sense in my head and I feel a bit more confident with my mountain rescue rigging abilities! Hopefully it is a long time until they are put to the test!

I also covered a day at the Ice Factor the following week, running an Intro to Rock climbing session with a couple from Cumbernauld - such a small world, they live just round the corner from my family home! They were excellent craic and really enjoyed getting to grips with the basics; tying in, belaying and movement on rock. They were keen to learn a bit more about the equipment we were using and so I spent a bit of time going over this with them. We were then joined after lunch by a group of lads for a Hit the Ice! session. The 5 in the group were keen to get hands on, so I kept the brief short and set them a few challenges to allow them to adjust to moving in crampons, trusting their front points and finding their balance. Then I introduced ice axes and got the guys hammering away judging good placements from bad, before teaming them up (with a work experience lad who was shadowing me) and getting them to put the skills together on the ice. Everyone did really well, as I drip fed more techniques and strategic considerations to the session. We even had a pop at placing ice screws to give them a chance at feeling like they were leading! It was a great session, and I think (hope) everyone enjoyed themselves and learnt something new about themselves in the process! I will be doing quite a bit of work for the Ice Factor over July and August, I am looking forward to it!

This weekend (16th-17th June) I was assessing a Duke of Edinburgh Bronze Qualifying expedition in the Arrochar area for the Lochgilphead Group. The weather on Saturday was pretty grim but the 5 candidates bore up to it well and after a bit of a chat and a look at some kit theyheaded off into the wilds. The downside of assessing is the sitting about, and given the horrific midge condition I certainly didn't want to do much of that! I wanted to drop in to the camp once they were set up comfortably, so went for a nice meal in the Drovers. Then I took my kit up from Inveruglas towards Ben Vane and set up a camp some 2km away from the team. I then dropped in to quiz them about their camp site choice, cooking considerations and see how their day had went. After a brief chat I left them to the midge, and headed back to the drovers to dry off (poor effort, I know...). It rained all night, but the tent was absolutely fine. What wasn't fine, however, was the amount of midgies waiting outside the tent. It was horrific, almost as bad as on Arran with Scott back in '07. Even now as the tent dries in my spare room the vents are covered in 'smudge' (midge mud). Thankfully I had a good midge net, so wrapped up and got the soaking wet tent down and packed double quick. All that was left was to kill some time and then intercept the group as they passed the Cobbler path intersection. I chose to have their debrief here, while I had their attention and could get some meaningful chat from them while there was a breeze (the car park was a midge haven, they would stay for 6 seconds then want to dash to their parents cars). All 5 candidates passed quite comfortably, and hopefully they will look into doing their Silver next year. Thanks to James, Andy, Jean-Michell, Julie and Douglas for their hospitality and craic over the weekend. Back to Fort William for a fish supper and a disappointing loss for Holland....

19th May 2012 - Helicopter Training with LMRT

So today there was some last minute mountain rescue training in the Coastguard S92 helicopter. I have never been in a helicopter before so was pretty excited to say the least. The purpose of the training was to familiarise ourselves with the crew, the helicopter itself, emergency procedures and what to do when being winched up and down in various conditions and locations.

After a reasonably long wait for the chopper to meet us in Glen Nevis, we got sorted out into groups and started looking at hazards inside and outside the helicopter, how to board and alight, and the features of this specific model of aircraft. Then it was time to get winched up and practice everything we had been taught before going off for a flight around the Ben, visiting various locations. Malcolm, Henry and I got dropped off at Carn Dearg, while the chopper went to fetch team two. On its return, it picked us up for another whirl around the mountain before dropping us safely back at our starting point.

It was a terrific day and really demonstrated the capabilities of the S92, as well as the important part it plays in mountain and coastal rescues. I can't wait for another training session....