23rd January 2013 - Cascades on the Ben

Joe and Kev gearing up

Walking in

Kev setting off

Promo shot!

The extent of the Cascades, all looking good!

Homeward bound - Me, Dave, Joe and Kev

So today with a reasonable weather forecast, Dave, Kev, Joe and I decided to take a wander up to the North Face of the Ben for a short day on the Cascades. After a leisurely start (Joe turned u at mine about an hour early, before my alarm had even went off!) up to the top car park, we kitted up and strolled in with light winds and a lot of routes looking in good condition. On approach we had a good view of our target, and decided early on that the right hand cascades would be in condition and within our capabilities. Another team was on the central line, and the CIC Cascades were not being attempted by anyone.

When we got to the Allt a' Mhuilinn crossing, the icy cold wind became more apparent and it was a feature of the day. The walk over the boulder field to the foot of the falls was hellish ankle breaking terrain, but we eventually got there in one piece. After having a play around testing the ice and working out if it was in good enough condition, we paired up (Kev and Dave, me and Joe) and Kev set off on the lead. You really noticed the wind standing about on the belays, but the views were superb and the craic, as always, was top notch. Soon Dave was away u, and I got myself ready to lead. I was keen to try out my modded DMM Flys which I had put grip rests and trig rests onto the previous day. The difference was incredible - not feeling that my hands were going to slide off the ends meant that I barely had to grip the axe and could focus much more on my foot work. I soon arrived at the belay where Kev was belaying Dave on pitch 2, set up a belay for myself and brought Joe up, who then led on using Daves pre-placed screws. Terrific wee lead on Joes part, his first on outdoor ice and he will inevitably become a terrific climber <insert choice words here>!!!

After what seemed a lifetime, Joe brought me up the second, slightly shitty second pitch (brittle ice in poor condition, but a lovely step to finish) and we quickly derigged and joined the other lads on a reccy walk round into Coire na Ciste to see what was going on there. After going back to collect our packs, we headed for home having had a great day playing on grade III/IV ice. Happy with my axes - no need to buy some quarks or nomics for another season :) I'll not be climbing that hard this season anyway! Looking forward to our next outing!

Sron na Lairig - 1st December 2012

So today I was out with Anna, Davie, Kev, Dave and Dave's mate Dessie and our objective was Sron na Lairig, a classic little ridge which protrudes from the eastern flank of Stob Coire Sgreamhach in Glen Coe. Craig, Suzie and John had the same objective and to all intents and purposes we were there together. Meeting at the wee Buachaille car park at half 7, we set off around 8am along the pleasant but very icy Lairig Eilde path in full view of our target, only stopping to adjust layers occasionally, or to take many, many pictures.

We reached the foot of the Sron in good time, and got ourselves kitted up with harnesses and helmets, adjusted our layering again, and cracked on. It was Annas first winter day this season, and as it sits at Grade II I opted to stay at the back and make sure she felt confident on the more awkward steps. She aced the lot of it, without even a second thought. We soloed the entire route comfortably, and enjoyed the short but very narrow and exposed sections. Snow underfoot was slightly better than it had been on Tower Ridge, and the turf was pretty much frozen throughout, providing support when needed.

We topped out before midday, and sat down for some lunch and to take in the stunning views down Glen Etive, across Glen Coe and out towards the Black Mount. The sky was blue and visibility exceptional. We packed up and headed to the summit of Sgreamhach through soft, varying depth of snow with ankle breaking scree beneath.

After spending some time on the summit discussing out options for descent, we backtracked beyond the Sron to a shallow bealach which dropped us down quite quickly to the Glen floor, eventually joining the Eilde path back and along to the car park, enjoying the craic and banter all the way.

We then popped into the Clachaig for a well earned lunch before heading our seperate ways home. Another cracking winter route completed in good company, this time within daylight hours!!!

28th November 2012 - An Epic Day on Tower Ridge, Ben Nevis

Approaching our target as the day breaks

NE Buttress, Observatory Ridge and Tower Ridge

Davie Scott, Kev Shields, Dave Anderson and Craig McDonald. Not smiling for long.

Approaching East Gully

Ascending to the Douglas Gap

The Gully taking us onto the Ridge proper

Try and spot Kev and Dave amid the jumbled rocks below the Little Tower

Preparing for what turned out to be one of the trickier ascents under the conditions

Dave and Kev negotiate the Eastern Traverse, while Davie looks on

Davie makes light work of the massively banked out Eastern Traverse

The Cave, filling nicely. Its more like swimming uphill through porridge than climbing!

The light fails as we reach Tower Gap. Dave crosses and makes tentative progress

Finally darkness consumes us, and the headtorches come out

Cold, tired, relieved and thrilled at the top. It's a long walk back down though....

On the tourist track in pitch darkness. A very different place to the summer track so many people know...

A few months ago, Davie Scott and I had a chat about our personal tick lists for this winter season. The past two seasons I have consumed my time preparing for my Winter ML Assessment, and now that this is done and dusted I am keen to do more winter climbing again!! The outcome of the conversation was that my absolute top-of-the-list target was Tower Ridge. Coming in at a cool IV, 3 *** I didnt have particularly high hopes of getting on it personally.

Fast forward to Tuesday afternoon, and Davie and I are again discussing what we want to get on with this good weather, and he mentions that him and a few others are going to attempt Tower Ridge the following day, and invites me along. After considering for all of 20 seconds, it was on. Needless to say, I was pretty nervous and certainly didnt want to hold the other guys up, but certainly didn't want to miss this opportunity!

And so it was that at 6 am on a freezing November morning, I met up with Davie, Kev Shields and Dave Anderson and headed on up towards the North Face. Under the cover of darkness we made quick progress, morale was high and the banter was flowing. We came across a few others hoping to make good ascents in the fine weather, and day was beginning to break as we reached the CIC hut. We didn't hang around long, but got moving up towards East Gully on the approach to the Douglas Gap. We harnessed and helmetted up, and after inspecting the snow pack on a few occasions we made quick progress up into the Gap. Dave and Davie made nice solo ascents of the chimney, and I got 3/4 of the way up before losing my cool and getting a rope dropped down - better safe than dead, but annoyingly as the rope popped into view I discovered an excellent foothold I completely and utterly missed! Kev came up quickly behind, and we were all content to be on the ridge proper!

We moved on over easy ground with poor, deep snow until we reached the Little Tower, where Dave and Davie again put up some excellent leads directly up the Tower, with Kev and I following on. I certainly wouldn't have wanted to lead this pitch, although in hindsight the gear was excellent when it was found. Again we were able to make quick progress after this tricky section, overcoming easier obstacles and enjoying the absolutely stunning panoramic views all around.

Finally we reached the base of the Great Tower, where we had to face the first of two traditional cruxes - the Eastern Traverse. It was seriously banked out, and the snow was falling away under our feet. Every step was a lottery. Dave and Davie laced the line with good gear, and the next thing we knew we were swimming up through the Cave, with barely inches to spare as we squeezed through the other side! From here Dave put up a stunning lead onto the top of the Tower just as the light was fading. I don't think any of us really realised just how arduous the ridge had been under the given conditions, but we pressed on into the darkness regardless and negotiated the second crux - Tower Gap. Climbing tentatively along this metre wide ridge, dropping your weight onto snow covered ledges with only some tat for support is certainly not for the faint hearted. Leaning across the gap and trying to climb up the other side seemed almost ludicrous at the time: but we did it. The screams and yells of exasperation from another team on NE Buttress certainly didn't boost confidence though! It was headtorch central as we moved up the final slopes and steps to the exit chimney, the only part of the whole day which provided secure feeling axe placements. And then that was it, we were on the summit, elated. Cold, wet, tired but elated. We shook hands, smiles all round as we snapped a few finishing photos and grabbed a quick bite to eat before making our way swiftly to the tourist track and back to the car park over the bog. It was here that I stuffed my expensive gloves down my jacket - the last time I ever saw them :( When I unclasped my waist belt they must have dropped out - I jogged up early the next morning to find them but they were gone! Absolutely gutted! Best gloves I ever had, and now the theme of many a good joke!

So there we have it. My first winter route of the 12/13 season was on top of my tick list. It was in horrific condition, with no frozen turf, soft sugary snow, no consolidation whatsoever and not a drop of ice to aid our ascent. But it was done. So can I therefore rest on my laurels, glad to have achieved my number one target? Can I buggery - the next outting is already in the pipe line!!!

Thanks lads for a trully memorable ascent - certainly my most challenging to date and one that will take a long time to forget!